Takahashi Shosaku Sake Brewery

Every rice field possesses its own unique character. Not a single one is the same, from the soil composition to its exposure to sunlight and the way the wind blows through it. What if the "expression of the rice" born from these differences could be fully captured in the quality of the sake?

In 2018, with this vision in mind, Wataru Takahashi of Takahashi Shosaku Sake Brewery began crafting "Junmaishu Aizumusume Jo," a Junmai Ginjo sake made from rice harvested from individual paddies. The small brewery in Aizuwakamatsu City, founded in the early Meiji era, has consistently managed the entire process from growing rice in its own fields to brewing. His father, the fifth-generation kuramoto, had ceased all production of standard-grade sake in 1986 and began to embrace organic rice cultivation.

"At our brewery, everyone is involved in everything from weeding the paddies to bottling the sake. Watching the fields every day, I could clearly feel the individuality of each one. I felt a growing desire to express this in the quality of our sake."

Agriculture and Sake Brewing for the Next Generation

The word "terroir" is French for "land." In the world of wine, where the quality of the grape greatly influences the final product, it is a familiar term. However, expressing the individuality of rice in sake is a far more difficult task. This is because sake is made through a more complex fermentation process, and even when using the same rice, the flavor can vary dramatically depending on the brewer.

Therefore, for "Junmaishu Aizumusume Jo," Takahashi decided to use locally grown Gohyakumangoku sake rice polished to 55% and to standardize numerical values such as the sake meter value (SMV) and alcohol content. Bringing rice with inherently different characteristics to the same goal requires meticulous adjustments, such as water absorption time, making the work more complex. However, Takahashi holds a firm conviction: precisely because these numbers are the same, the distinct expressions of the rice are clearly revealed.

Carrying on the organic cultivation his father began 35 years ago, 20% of the brewery's paddies are now certified Organic JAS. He builds the soil using compost made from fermented and aged sake kasu (lees). A peek at the surface of the paddies in summer reveals medaka (Japanese rice fish) swimming contentedly.

"Organic farming involves a great deal of thought in its interaction with nature, allowing one to fully enjoy the pleasure of growing rice alongside countless lives. Furthermore, I feel that the moromi (fermenting mash) made from organic rice has flexibility and resilience against environmental changes, and possesses the strength to reach its goal on its own. The difference when it becomes sake is the 'density of flavor.' Junmai sake from organic rice has a rich, dense texture."

Agriculture and sake brewing to be passed down to the next generation—Wataru Takahashi's masterful brewing is drawing attention as he ventures into the uncharted territory of "Ichiden-ichijo" (one rice field, one brew).