02 TOJI Women!
Hanaharu Sake Brewery
Junko Kashiwagi
"I Absolutely Have to Do This Work"—Driven by a Passion for Brewing
Junko Kashiwagi(Director of Production & Toji)
Joined Hanaharu Sake Brewery in 1993 and was assigned to the sake research lab. While continuing to harbor a passion for brewing, she got married and had children, before finally being assigned to her long-desired role in the production department in her 10th year. She became Toji in 2007. In 2016, she left to join Tsurunoe Sake Brewery, before returning to Hanaharu Sake Brewery in 2018 to once again serve as Toji.
Captivated by the Brewery Floor on Her First Visit
Once upon a time, many sake breweries were "nyonin kinsei"—off-limits to women. When Junko Kashiwagi joined Hanaharu Sake Brewery in 1993, all the kurabito (brewery workers) were men. During the brewing season from fall to winter, seasonal workers from neighboring regions would gather under the direction of a Toji from the Sannai guild in Akita Prefecture to brew sake.
Having studied food science at university, Kashiwagi was assigned to the sake research lab right after joining. One of her daily tasks was to go to the brewery every morning to retrieve a sample of the "moromi" (fermenting mash) for analysis.
Brewing Her Ideal Sake with Natural Tasting Talent and Passion
"I want to brew sake." Becoming a huge fan of Japanese sake, Kashiwagi secretly harbored this passion and requested a transfer to the production department. However, she was flatly rejected for the reason that women could not be involved in brewing. It was only after a change in her supervisor, in her 10th year with the company, that her long-held wish was finally granted.
In 2003, with this passion in her heart, she took a tasting test at the "Fukushima Prefecture Sake Academy Vocational Skills Development School." In her first year, she already achieved over 90% accuracy, and scored perfectly in her second and third years. This record remains unbroken to this day, and she astounded those around her with her natural talent for tasting.
The rice washing process. A timer is used to measure the soaking time down to the second to achieve the precise target water absorption ratio. "I believe that this ingredient processing—the rice washing and water absorption—is extremely important in sake brewing. It affects everything right up until the very end," says Kashiwagi.
From left: 'Tenmiya,' 'Hanaharu Yamada Nishiki Junmai Daiginjo,' and 'Yume no Kanade Junmai Daiginjo.' 'Tenmiya,' a new all-handmade brand launched by Kashiwagi when she returned to the brewery in 2018, is brewed in small 500kg batches for limited distribution. *'Tenmiya' is available only at partner liquor stores and is not sold at the brewery's direct sales shop. Please inquire for details.
CHANGE_What was your biggest turning point?
In 2002, in my 10th year at the company, when I was finally able to get involved in brewing. My supervisor understood my desire to "brew sake."
PERSON_Who gives you energy?
Our customers. When they say "That was delicious," or "Keep up the good work," it makes me so happy and gives me the power to keep going.
FUTURE_What is your vision for the future?
Just as my seniors taught me, I want to convey the charm of sake brewing to the next generation. I want them to take on the challenge with the passion to "create sake that brings a smile to the drinker's face."
- Name
- Hanaharu Sake Brewery
- Established
- 1718
- Address
- 24-1 Azahata-no-mae, Oaza-nakashigo, Kōzashi-machi, Aizuwakamatsu-shi, Fukushima
- TEL
- 0242-22-0022
- Business Hours
- 8:00 AM - 5:00 PM (Closed Sundays and public holidays)
- Other
- Brewery tours are free of charge. Reservations required.