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GENERATION
Ariga Brewery
Yujiro Ariga
Sake Unbound by Convention, Brewed with a Scientific Mind
Yujiro Ariga(Managing Director & Toji)
Born in 1984. After completing his master's degree at Tohoku University's Graduate School of Life Sciences and subsequently withdrawing from the doctoral program, he joined Ariga Brewery Limited Partnership in 2011. He has served as Toji since 2012.
From the Path of a Researcher to the Family's Sake Brewery
Ariga Brewery, founded in the late Edo period, is located in Shirakawa City in the southern part of Fukushima's Nakadori region, amidst a lush rural landscape. Yujiro Ariga, who manages the brewing as Toji, has an unusual background. He was studying immunology in the master's and doctoral programs at Tohoku University's Graduate School of Life Sciences when the Great East Japan Earthquake prompted him to return to the brewery and start learning to brew from scratch.
"I never originally intended to take over the brewery. I was considering either studying abroad to pursue a career as a researcher, or returning to my hometown to find a job that utilized my research," he says. "If it weren't for the Great East Japan Earthquake, I think I would have walked a completely different path in life."
Exploring the Possibilities of Brewing Beyond Convention
"It's been 10 years since the earthquake, and both the brewery and I have evolved, but I feel like it's still just been 10 years. Based on the brewing techniques I've built up myself, I want to take on various challenges without being bound by the conventions of brewing. The foundation for this is brewing that makes use of our region's characteristics. The water in Shirakawa is medium-hard, and I aim to create a dry-tasting sake that takes advantage of this. We are also exploring various other directions, such as a lightly sparkling sake perfect for camping, or a high-acid sake ideal as a food pairing."
A unique brand called "Rikei Kyodai (Science Brothers)" also offers a glimpse into his unconventional approach to sake brewing. The sake was created through a project with a Tokyo liquor store, based on the fact that Yujiro's older brother and Senior Managing Director, Kazuhiro, also has a science background. Yujiro embraced the idea, finding it interesting. "It's good to have a variety of opportunities to attract new fans and introduce them to Ariga Brewery," he says. Built on a foundation of cultivated skill, his journey to explore new possibilities in brewing has only just begun.
The process of steaming the rice in a large cauldron after it has been washed and soaked. White steam billows up into the chilly air of the early morning kura (brewery).
The cooling process, to bring down the temperature of the freshly steamed rice. The sake rice is cooled evenly by hand to prevent any inconsistencies or variation.
Koji, steamed rice, and water are combined and fermented to create moromi, the mash that becomes Japanese sake. The temperature of the moromi is stabilized through the process of 'kai-ire,' or repeated stirring with paddles.
The joso (pressing) process using a 'Yabuta-style' press. The moromi is poured into the white sections seen in the photo, which are composed of plates and filter cloths, and is pressed with pressure from the side. In this step, the sake is separated from the sake-kasu (sake lees).
From left: 'Kissui Hidariuma Junmai Ginjo,' which attempts a new flavor through its use of rice and koji; 'Jinya Tokubetsu Junmai,' the most basic expression, with a crisp flavor perfect for pairing with food; and the popular 'Tora Makkori,' brewed only with rice and pressed raw without pasteurization.
CHANGE_What was your biggest turning point?
It was definitely the Great East Japan Earthquake in 2011. If the earthquake hadn't happened, I believe I would have lived a completely different life. It became a catalyst for me to think about what I could do right now, in this moment, rather than pursuing a research career that looked 10 or 20 years into the future.
PERSON_Who influenced you?
In terms of sake brewing, it was Mr. Kenji Suzuki from the Sake Academy Vocational Skills Development School. He taught me that "the foundation of sake brewing is in observation. If you learn that properly, you can then apply it to create your own unique, individual sake."
FUTURE_What is your vision for the future?
In 2024, Ariga Brewery will celebrate its 250th anniversary since its founding and the 100th anniversary of its incorporation. I want to preserve the rich natural environment surrounding our brewery that supports our sake making, even 100 years from now. I believe the brewery has a role to play in that. I imagine a future where the sake nurtured in this way is being enjoyed all over the world.
- Name
- Ariga Brewery
- Established
- 1774
- Address
- 96 Honmachi, Higashi-kamako, Shirakawa-shi, Fukushima
- TEL
- 0248-34-2323
- Business Hours
- 9:00 AM - 5:00 PM (Closed Sundays and public holidays)
- Other
- Sake brewing experience and brewery tours available (reservations required).